Mosaic Crochet Patterns

Hello crochet friends,
It has been a while but I promise you I have a post full of new designs for you.
Recently, I have been working on some mosaic crochet patterns. And in this post, I’ll compile them all for you and will share the written pattern together with the chart of my recent design. 

To start, this is the Interlaced Mosaic Crochet pattern worked in the round to make a beautiful bag. I repeated the pattern twice to reach the desired length and the pattern itself was repeated twice across the rows to make the back and front of the bag. 
The written pattern can be found here.

The next design is the Gnome Mosaic Crochet pattern that you will find in 2 parts. I went through the steps of crocheting one unit of gnome to make a phone purse. Again, the pattern is repeated twice to make the front and back. In the written pattern, I have another option of crocheting the gnomes in a seamless pattern with alternating positions to get the look below.

You can find the written pattern here.

And then my recent project, the Simple Mosaic Crochet Mug Rug pattern. This pattern is made with a repetitive pattern across the rows for beginners interested to learn mosaic crochet basics. In the beginning of this video, I am explaining the chart and how to read it and then I crochet a small swatch of the pattern. 
Below you will find the chart, together with the written pattern for this design.

Material Needed:

          Yarn: Any weight can be used. I recommend weight 3 or 4 in two different colors.

          Hook: 4 mm or a hook size matching the yarn of your choice

          A pair of scissors

 

Abbreviations: (alphabetically)

          CH: Chain

          DC-FLO: Double Crochet in the front loop only

          SC: Single Crochet

          SC-BLO: Single Crochet in the back loop only

          ST(S): Stitch(es)

 

 

Special Stitches: (Illustration photos available in the next page)
DC-FLO: Double crochet in the front loop only

         Yarn over, insert the hook into the front loop of the stitch 2 rows below (that stitch should be the same color you are currently working with), yarn over and pull a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops then yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops.

 

SC-BLO: Single crochet in the back loop only

 

         Insert the hook into the back loop of the next stitch, yarn over and pull a loop, yarn over and pull through the 2 loops

General Notes:

         The pattern is written in US Terms.

         Stitch abbreviation x number e.g., SCx3: Single crochet into each of the next 3 stitches.

         Each square in the graph represents a stitch. Each row is worked as one row of crochet stitches.

         Change color occurs every row, meaning that all even number rows will be worked with the same color and the same for odd number rows.

         When working in rows, all rows are worked from the right to the left on one side of the project. The yarn is cut at the end of the row leaving about 15 cm tail.

 

Pattern:

Refer to the notes section before attempting the pattern. Regular single crochet stitches at the beginning and end of the row are NOT mentioned in the written pattern below.

Color A: Main color                         Color B: Background Color

Row 1 (A): SC-BLO x 30

Row 2 (B): SC-BLO x 30

Row 3 (A): (DC-FLO x 2, SC-BLO x 2) x 7

Row 4 (B): (SC-BLO x 2, DC-FLO x 2) x 7

Row 5 (A): SC-BLO x 30

Row 6 (B): (DC-FLO x 2, SC-BLO x 2) x 7

Row 7 (A): (SC-BLO x 2, DC-FLO x 2) x 7

Row 8 (B): SC-BLO x 30

Row 9 (A): (DC-FLO x 2, SC-BLO x 2) x 7

Row 10 (B): (SC-BLO x 2, DC-FLO x 2) x 7

Repeat rows 5 – 10 till you reach the length needed.

 

To get an ad-free copy of this pattern, click here

The Scale Pattern

Today, I will be sharing with you the written instructions for the Scale Pattern posted a few weeks ago on my YT channel. Please read the notes and special stitches description carefully before attempting the pattern.

Material Needed:

Worsted yarn (weight 4)

A hook that matches the yarn used.

(I used Red Heart Ombre Yarn with 4 mm hook. For a more flowy result, you may use a bigger hook size)

Notes:

  • The pattern is written using US Terms.
  • Chain 1 in the beginning of the row is NOT counted as a stitch and always skipped.
  • Stitch abbreviation x number e.g., SCx3: Single crochet into each of the next 3 stitches.
  • This pattern is a 2-row repeat.
  • Please read the special stitches section before attempting the pattern.

Abbreviations: (alphabetically)

CH: Chain

FPSC: Front Post Single Crochet
HDC:
Half Double Crochet

HDC-3rd Loop: Work the half double crochet in the 3rd loop of the half double stitch of the previous row.

SC: Single Crochet

ST(S): Stitch(es)

Special Stitch:

Front Post Single Crochet: Count 3 stitches backward on your current row (including the half double crochet you have just finished). Trace the third stitch (the first stitch of the repeat) down to the row below. Insert the hook from the front to the back and out on the front side around the half double crochet stitch in the previous row, yarn over and pull a loop (2 loops on the hook). Yarn over and pull through the 2 loops.

SC-Around CH: Around the 3 chains made to connect the 2 rows together, work 5 single crochet stitches to get you back to the current row.

 

Pattern:

Chain a multiple of 3

Row 1: SK1, HDC across the row till you finish all STS.

Row 2: CH1, Turn. HDC, (HDCx3, CH3, FPSC, SC-Around CH). Repeat () till one ST remaining, HDC.

Row 3: CH1, Turn. HDC, HDC-3rd loop across the row till 1 ST remaining, HDC.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 till the end of your project.

 

I would love to see your work. Please tag me on social media #eriniscorner #crochetcorner0

Disclaimer:
You can sell finished items made of these patterns. Please give credit to Erini’s Corner with the original design. Any reproduction of the written patterns, video tutorials and photos either mechanically, electronically or through photocopying is NOT permitted.

3D Chevron

Chevron crochet patterns are so popular with all the lovely variations available on the internet.

I have crocheted a chevron pattern in the round a couple of years ago when my son requested a Spiderman blanket. What I love about chevron patterns is that once you figure out what you should do, it is a no brainer repetition until you are done and happy with your project.

You can play with colors, mix and match and you feel you get a different “new” pattern each time.

Today, I am sharing with you the icing on the cake for your next chevron crochet project; adding more texture to the lovely, popular, and well known zigzag crochet.
It is the 3D Chevron pattern. 

 

Don’t let the zigzag effect fool you. This pattern is crocheted in a totally different way than a normal chevron but I can assure it is a simple, beginner friendly crochet pattern.

It can easily be adapted into a blanket (maybe a temperature blanket?), pillowcase, textured bag or purse, or a shawl. It’s a versatile pattern and you can easily add more colors to it.
Check it out and let me know how you find it. What kind of project are you going to use it for?
You can always share your project photos on Instagram using #eriniscorner and #crochetcorner0


And as always, stay safe and keep crocheting!

The Ride Square

Hello .. Hello..
How are you friends? What have you been up to lately?

I have been busy creating new videos for my channel. I have uploaded some pattern tutorials but have not had a chance to update my blog. But I am here with a new square tutorial. Don’t you love squares, specially when they are not the typical granny squares?

The Ride Square is a unique 2-color square, made with 100% mercerized cotton. 

You can find the video tutorial right below. I, also, have the written instructions here and an ad-free version can be found on my Ravelry store

The Ride Square

Material Needed:

  • 100 % Cotton Yarn – Weight 3 (DK) – 2 different colors
  • Hook: 3.5 mm
  • Tapestry needle to weave in ends

Notes:

  • The pattern is written using US Terms.
  • Chain 1 or 2 in the beginning of the round is not considered a stitch.
  • Number stitch abbreviation e.g., 3DC: Three double crochet stitches into the same stitch.
  • Stitch abbreviation x number e.g., SCx3: Single crochet into each of the next 3 stitches.
  • At the end of each round, slip stitch to join the first and last stitches.
  • Change in color is done at the end of the round when joining the first and last stitches with a slip stitch.
  • The yarn not used for the round is NOT carried along unless otherwise stated in the pattern.

The number in brackets at the end of each round is the number of total stitches for that round.

Abbreviations: (alphabetically)


C1: Color 1
C2: Color 2

CH: Chain

DC: Double Crochet

HDC: Half Double Crochet

HDC-BLO: Half Double Crochet into the Back Loop Only

FPDC2TOG: Front Post Double Crochet 2 Together

FPSC: Front Post Single Crochet
FPTR: Front Post Treble (Triple) Crochet

MR: Magic Ring
RD: Round

SC: Single Crochet
SC-BLO: Single Crochet into the Back Loop Only

SK: Skip

SP: Space

Sl St: Slip Stitch
ST(s): Stitch(es)

Special Stitches:

  • FPTR: yarn over (yo) twice, insert the hook around the specified post from front to back to front, yo and pull a loop (lp), 4 lps on hook, (yo and pull through 2 lps) x 3
  • FPDC2TOG: yo, insert the hook around the specified post from front to back to front, yo and pull a loop (lp), 3 lps on hook, yo and pull through 2 lp. YO and insert the hook around the next specified post, yo and pull a loop (lp), 4 lps on hook, yo and pull through 2 lp (3 lps on hook), yo and pull through 3 lps.
  • FPSC: Insert the hook around the specified stitch from front to back to front, yo and pull a lp (2 lps on hook), yo and pull through 2 lps.
  • PUFF: (yo, insert the hook into the specified st, yo and pull a lp) x 3 times, 7 lps on hook, yo and pull through all lps, ch 1.

Pattern:

Into the MR:

  • RD 1 (C1): CH2, 12DC (12)
  • RD 2 (C2): Sl St to the next SP between 2DC posts. CH2, 2DC into SP x 12 (24)
  • RD 3 (C1): Sl St to the next SP between 2 sets of DC. (2HDC, FPTR around post of RD 1, Sk1) x 12 (36)
  • RD 4 (C2): CH1, (SCx2, FPDC2TOG around the posts of RD 2, SK1) x 12 (36)
  • RD 5 (C1 and carrying C2 along): CH2, [DC, 2DC, switch to C2, puff, switch to C1 (please check notes)] x 12 (48)
  • RD 6 (C2): (2SC, SCx2, FPSC around puff) x 12 (60)
  • RD 7 (C1): (HDC-BLO, SC-BLOx12, HDC-BLO, 3DC) x 4 (68)
  • RD 8 (C2): (HDC-BLO, SC-BLOx12, HDC-BLOx2, 3DC, HDC-BLO) x 4 (76)
    Fasten off and weave in the ends. Block your square if needed.

Japanese Knot Bag


Hello everyone. I saw the Japanese knot bags on Pinterest and wanted to give it a try in crochet. I decided to go with pumpkin colors since we are getting closer to Thanksgiving here in Canada and lots of fellow crocheters are looking for new Fall / Thanksgiving themed projects. You can definitely try it in any color you want.
I find this bag really helpful when you are on the go and wanting to have your mask and hand sanitizer handy during pandemic.

Unfortunately, I couldn’t find cotton yarn in orange and green before shooting the video so in the tutorial, you will find me working with acrylic yarn. If it’s your first time crocheting bags and wondering about the material to be used, acrylic yarn has a stretch in it and that’s why it’s always advisable to either use cotton yarn or if you will got with acrylic then you need to add a lining to your bag.

I have written the directions for 2 sizes; the small one (featured in the video tutorial) and the bigger size. The pattern starts off the same for both then changes take place in round 5; as highlighted below.

For the handles, you will find 2 different numbers with one (between brackets for large size bag). 
Gauge
: N/A

Yarn: Cotton yarn of weight 4 (Orange and green) or your yarn of choice
Hook: 4 mm or hook size to match your yarn choice
Stitches Used: (US Terms)
Double Crochet 2 Together (Dc2tog): Yarn over, insert the hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull a loop through the stitch, 3 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops only, yarn over, insert the hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull a loop through the stitch, 4 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, 3 loops on the hook remaining, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
Notes:
          The pattern is written for 2 different sizes, small and large.
          The chain 1 at the beginning of each row is NOT considered a stitch.
        At the end of each round / row, the total number of stitches will be mentioned between brackets
     (No) Stitch name (e.g. 2 dc): Means 2 double crochet stitches in the same stitch i.e. increase
     Stitch name x (No) – e.g. dc x 3: Means one double crochet stitch into each of the next 3 stitches
     I used the invisible decrease method as explained in the video (11:40).

Abbreviations:
Ch: chain
St(s): stitch(es)
DC: double crochet
DC2TOG: double crochet 2 together (explained above)
Rep: repeat
Rd: Round
RS: Right side
Sc: Single crochet
Sc2tog: single crochet 2 together (used the invisible decrease)
Sl St: Slip stitch
St: Stitch
WS: wrong side
Pattern:
Using color 1, create a magic ring.
Rd 1: Ch 1, dc x 12    (12)
Rd 2: Ch 1, 2dc into each st    (24)
Rd 3: Ch 1, *2 dc, dc2tog*. Repeat *__* till the end, sl st to join      (36)
Rd 4:
Ch 1, *dc2tog x 2, 2dc *. Repeat *__* till the end, sl st to join (48)

** For the small size bag**

Rd 5: Ch 1, dc2tog across the whole rd. Sl st to join.             (48)     
Repeat Rd 5 till you finish Rd 12.

Switch to color 2
Rd 13:
Ch 1, *sc x 2, sc2tog*. Repeat *__* till the end, sl st to join (36)
Rd 14:
Ch 1, sc across the rd. Sl st to join. (36)


***For the large size bag ***
Rd 5:
Ch 1, *dc2tog, 2dc, dc2tog x 2*. Repeat *__* till the end, sl st to join            (60)
Repeat Rd 6 till you finish Rd 15.

Switch to color 2
Rd (16): Ch 1, *sc x 3, sc2tog*. Repeat *__* till the end, sl st to join (48)
Rd (17):
Ch 1, sc across the rd. Sl st to join    (48)



Short Handle:
Row 1:
Ch 1, sc x 7 (8)
Row 2: Ch 1 , turn, sc x 7 (8)
Repeat row 2 till you reach a length of 8” (9”). Cut off the yarn, leaving a long tail to sew the handle to the other side of the bag. Turn the bag inside out, working on the WS, start attaching the handle to the other side. Please refer to the video (16:58) for where to join the handle.

Long Handle:

Turn the bag inside out again. Now we are back to the RS. Lay your bag flat and pick the stitch on the other opposite side of where you started the short handle.
Join you yarn and repeat the same steps done of the short handle, till you reach a length of 10” (15”).
Sew the other side to the bag.

And now the bag is ready. Insert the long handle into the short one and your bag is closed.

Terms:
If you intend to sell projects made from my free patterns you find on my YouTube Channel (Erini’s Crochet Corner), Instagram account or blog, I would appreciate it if you link it back to any of my accounts on social media. Thank you and happy crocheting 🙂