Mosaic Crochet Patterns

Hello crochet friends,
It has been a while but I promise you I have a post full of new designs for you.
Recently, I have been working on some mosaic crochet patterns. And in this post, I’ll compile them all for you and will share the written pattern together with the chart of my recent design. 

To start, this is the Interlaced Mosaic Crochet pattern worked in the round to make a beautiful bag. I repeated the pattern twice to reach the desired length and the pattern itself was repeated twice across the rows to make the back and front of the bag. 
The written pattern can be found here.

The next design is the Gnome Mosaic Crochet pattern that you will find in 2 parts. I went through the steps of crocheting one unit of gnome to make a phone purse. Again, the pattern is repeated twice to make the front and back. In the written pattern, I have another option of crocheting the gnomes in a seamless pattern with alternating positions to get the look below.

You can find the written pattern here.

And then my recent project, the Simple Mosaic Crochet Mug Rug pattern. This pattern is made with a repetitive pattern across the rows for beginners interested to learn mosaic crochet basics. In the beginning of this video, I am explaining the chart and how to read it and then I crochet a small swatch of the pattern. 
Below you will find the chart, together with the written pattern for this design.

Material Needed:

          Yarn: Any weight can be used. I recommend weight 3 or 4 in two different colors.

          Hook: 4 mm or a hook size matching the yarn of your choice

          A pair of scissors

 

Abbreviations: (alphabetically)

          CH: Chain

          DC-FLO: Double Crochet in the front loop only

          SC: Single Crochet

          SC-BLO: Single Crochet in the back loop only

          ST(S): Stitch(es)

 

 

Special Stitches: (Illustration photos available in the next page)
DC-FLO: Double crochet in the front loop only

         Yarn over, insert the hook into the front loop of the stitch 2 rows below (that stitch should be the same color you are currently working with), yarn over and pull a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops then yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops.

 

SC-BLO: Single crochet in the back loop only

 

         Insert the hook into the back loop of the next stitch, yarn over and pull a loop, yarn over and pull through the 2 loops

General Notes:

         The pattern is written in US Terms.

         Stitch abbreviation x number e.g., SCx3: Single crochet into each of the next 3 stitches.

         Each square in the graph represents a stitch. Each row is worked as one row of crochet stitches.

         Change color occurs every row, meaning that all even number rows will be worked with the same color and the same for odd number rows.

         When working in rows, all rows are worked from the right to the left on one side of the project. The yarn is cut at the end of the row leaving about 15 cm tail.

 

Pattern:

Refer to the notes section before attempting the pattern. Regular single crochet stitches at the beginning and end of the row are NOT mentioned in the written pattern below.

Color A: Main color                         Color B: Background Color

Row 1 (A): SC-BLO x 30

Row 2 (B): SC-BLO x 30

Row 3 (A): (DC-FLO x 2, SC-BLO x 2) x 7

Row 4 (B): (SC-BLO x 2, DC-FLO x 2) x 7

Row 5 (A): SC-BLO x 30

Row 6 (B): (DC-FLO x 2, SC-BLO x 2) x 7

Row 7 (A): (SC-BLO x 2, DC-FLO x 2) x 7

Row 8 (B): SC-BLO x 30

Row 9 (A): (DC-FLO x 2, SC-BLO x 2) x 7

Row 10 (B): (SC-BLO x 2, DC-FLO x 2) x 7

Repeat rows 5 – 10 till you reach the length needed.

 

To get an ad-free copy of this pattern, click here

ABCrochet

I am so excited to announce the beginning of ABCrochet series on my channel.
If you are a beginner at crochet or have been learning for some time, this is your opportunity to get your skills to the next level.
We are learning advanced stitches and some tips and tricks along the way.
The first tutorial was released yesterday. It features the letter A for Alpine stitch.

What makes this series different is that I explain diagrams for most of the stitches featured. And in order to keep the videos short and less than 20 minutes, I will have the diagram discussion part in another separate video. Both parts will also have timestamps so you can jump directly to where you need to watch. 


This is part 1 of the Alpine stitch. 

 

Let’s be friends. You can find all my social media accounts here: Erini’s Corner

My recent work

Last year I shared a beginner tutorial of the “Moss and Spike Collide”; which is basically what the title refers too, a crochet pattern where I am using the moss and spike stitches to make a fast, yet thick crochet fabric.  

 

Later on, I used this pattern to make a beanie which I didn’t share on social media. But you can tell from the photo that it was well loved 🙂.

This year I decided to repeat the experience. I also wanted to make a matching infinity scarf to go along with it. 
You usually don’t find a lot of men /boys  beanie patterns available; so I decided to share this written pattern with you.

You will find only one size shared here, but this one is easily adjustable to make it bigger or smaller depending on what you are looking for. I will add tips through the pattern that explains where the changes need to be made for a different size.

Material Needed:

  • Worsted yarn (you can use one color or add 2 or more colors)
  • 5.5 and 6 mm hooks
  • Tapestry needle to weave end

Abbreviations:

CH: Chain
DEC: Invisible Decrease
SC: Single Crochet
SPST: Spike Stitch
SK: Skip

Spike Stitch: Insert the hook into the single crochet 2 rows below, yarn over and pull a loop. Stretch the loop to the height of your current row. Yarn over and pull through the 2 loops on the hook.

Invisible Decrease: Insert the hook into the front loop of the next stitch, then insert the hook into the front loop of the following stitch (3 loops on the hook). Yarn over and pull through 2 loops, you will have 2 loops left on the hook, yarn over and pull through the 2 loops. 

Pattern:

Using 5.5 mm and worsted yarn:

Start with the brim:

Row 1: Ch 9, SK 1, SCx8 (8)

Row 2 – 66: Ch 1, turn, SCx8 (8)

The total length at this point should be around 21″. If you wish to make it smaller or bigger to fit a different head circumference, adjust the number of rows above accordingly, making sure you end up with an even number of rows.

Bring the first and last row together and slip stitch both ends to close the circle. Don’t cut off yarn.

Beanie body: (Switch to 6 mm hook)

Round1: Turn the brim 90°. Start working on the side of the rows. Ch1, SCx66     (66)

Round 2: Ch1, (SC, CH 1, SK 1). Repeat () till the end of the round (33 SC, 33 CH1 spaces)

Round 3: Ch2, (SK1, SPST 2 rows below, CH1). Repeat () till the end of the round. (33 SPST, 33 CH1 SP)

Round 4: Ch1, (SPST 2 rows below, CH 1, SK1). Repeat () till the end of the round. (33 SPST, 33 CH1 SP)

Repeat rounds 3 and 4 till you finish round 23. 

You may adjust number of round to fit a bigger or small head size.

Round 24: Ch1, (SPST 2 rows below, SC). Repeat () till the end of the round.  (66)

Round 25: Ch1, (SCx4, DEC). Repeat () till the end of the round (55)

Round 26: Ch1, (SCx3, DEC). Repeat () till the end of the round (44)

Round 27: Ch1, (SCx2, DEC). Repeat () till the end of the round (33)

Round 28: Ch1, (SC, DEC). Repeat () till the end of the round (22)

Round 29: Ch1, DEC till the end of the round (11).

Cut off yarn and sew the opening closed.

If you make this pattern, please tag me on social media #eriniscorner and #crochetcorner0. I am always happy to see your work. 

You can always sell your work made of this pattern.

Disclaimer:
You can sell finished items made of these patterns. Please give credit to Erini’s Corner with the original design. Any reproduction of the written patterns, video tutorials and photos either mechanically, electronically or through photocopying is NOT permitted.

3D Chevron

Chevron crochet patterns are so popular with all the lovely variations available on the internet.

I have crocheted a chevron pattern in the round a couple of years ago when my son requested a Spiderman blanket. What I love about chevron patterns is that once you figure out what you should do, it is a no brainer repetition until you are done and happy with your project.

You can play with colors, mix and match and you feel you get a different “new” pattern each time.

Today, I am sharing with you the icing on the cake for your next chevron crochet project; adding more texture to the lovely, popular, and well known zigzag crochet.
It is the 3D Chevron pattern. 

 

Don’t let the zigzag effect fool you. This pattern is crocheted in a totally different way than a normal chevron but I can assure it is a simple, beginner friendly crochet pattern.

It can easily be adapted into a blanket (maybe a temperature blanket?), pillowcase, textured bag or purse, or a shawl. It’s a versatile pattern and you can easily add more colors to it.
Check it out and let me know how you find it. What kind of project are you going to use it for?
You can always share your project photos on Instagram using #eriniscorner and #crochetcorner0


And as always, stay safe and keep crocheting!

Happy Valentine’s Day

It’s Valentine’s day and if you haven’t yet crocheted anything that is love-themed, it’s never too late to start. 

Actually, I believe that each day you spend in peace and good health with your loved ones should be celebrated as a special day. So don’t let time limit you!!

You can still start crocheting something special to someone special, and that someone can be you.

I crocheted these amigurumi hearts a couple of months ago to add some color to our white winter days! I shared a link to this pattern in my previous post but I didn’t talk much about it. 

This pattern was the first trial to add wire to amigurumi work and I wanted it to be easy. I used mercerized cotton in pink and white and some poly-fill. 

At first, I was thinking of making a heart flower pot and have the base in brown and add some green leaves to the heart but as I started working I decided to make it as simple as it is now. I wanted the pink color to pop. 

Stitching the heart to the base top was a bit challenging since I was working around a very narrow circle. I used a small sewing needle to help go in and out through the tight stitches. 

 

 

I consider this pattern a beginner-friendly, suitable to crocheters who want to try amigurumi and practice tension control. If you feel your stitches are still wide and the filling will show through it, go with a smaller hook and keep practicing until you’re happy with the result. It all depends on the weight of yarn you’re using and how lose or tight your stitches are. 

Feel free to use acrylic yarn if that’s what you have on hand. Just be aware of the fact that acrylic yarn stretches. So don’t over stuff your final project.

Thank you for reading through and keep crocheting! 

 

Surprise while crocheting

When I start working on a design, I don’t have a full vision of what it will end up to be. 
I start with one thing in mind and usually do lots of modifications and unraveling, adjusting stitch numbers, changing to a different stitch, and repeating. 

This time things went into a different path.
Although I didn’t up doing the design I had in mind, but the changes were minimal since what I ended up with was right there in front of my face.

Check the video and see what I did. Let me know if you like the idea in the comments sections.

Plants you can’t kill!

It is Christmas time and everything is sparkling with gold, red and green. 

And with Christmas comes Poinsettias, with the beautiful arrangement of green and red leaves.

This pattern is an easy repeat of 3 different-sized leaves which are arranged together to bring this plant together.

I used 100% mercerized cotton in green and red, together with craft plant wire to hold up the leaves. 

You can find a detailed video tutorial right here
If you prefer a written pattern, it is available on my Ravelry store which you can visit by clicking here.

Before I go, I want to wish you a Merry Christmas and a happy new year.

Stay safe and warm. Keep crocheting!

Boo Tapestry Basket

Although I hate cold and snow but I am always excited around this time of the year as the trees are turning into the amazing shades of orange and brown. 

Schools are back and hopefully without any disruption this semester. So I had some time to work on this Halloween themed basket pattern.
I am so much into crocheting baskets these days (if you have missed the Trio Nesting basket, you can find the post here) and so I decided to come up with the Boo Tapestry Basket.
This pattern is made using tapestry crochet for both the base and sides, working in the back loops of stitches. 

For the side pumpkin face, you can get a chart for it by getting the pattern through my Ravelry store.

As always, you will find a video tutorial on my channel (I wanted to keep the tutorials short, so you will find 2 parts covering the pattern). I am working on part 2 and hopefully will have it available by Thursday.

I am going to leave you now with the pattern. You can also find an ad-free version of my patterns on my Ravelry Store.

Material Needed:

  • Weight 4 yarn in Orange and Black
  • Hook: 2.5 mm
  • 4 stitch markers
  • Tapestry needle to weave in ends
  • A pair of scissors

Notes:

  • The pattern is written using US Terms.
  • The whole pattern is worked by crocheting around the yarn not currently used (tapestry crochet method) to give a uniform thickness to the whole basket.
  • Chain 1 in the beginning of the round is NOT counted as a stitch.
  • Each round ends with a slip stitch to join the first and last stitches. The slip stitch is worked by inserting the hook under the back loop of the stitch.
  • Stitch markers are placed in the middle stitch of each corner (3 single crochet stitches) to easily identify where the increase takes place in the following round.
  • Number stitch abbreviation e.g., 3SC: Three single crochet stitches into the same stitch.
  • Stitch abbreviation x number e.g., SCx3: Single crochet into each of the next 3 stitches.
  • The number in brackets at the end of each round is the number of total stitches for that round.
  • In the pattern, you will notice it is written in different colors to easily identify the color used for the stitch and a letter, B for black and O for orange are also written next to each stitch.
  • The pumpkin chart is to be repeated on each of the 4 sides of the basket.
  • The change in color is done by finishing the last single crochet stitch before a color change with the new color (yarn over and pull through the 2 loops using the new color to be used in the following stitch).

Abbreviations: (alphabetically)

B: Black Yarn
CH: Chain
MR:
Magic Ring

O: Orange Yarn

SC: Single Crochet

SC-BLO: Single Crochet in the back loop only

SL ST: Slip stitch

ST(S): Stitch(es)

Gauge:

  • 2“x 2” square: 5 rounds of single crochet in back loop

Pattern:

The Base:

Using B, start with MR

  • Round 1: SC x 8 B. SL ST to join. SL ST to join with B. (8)
  • Round 2: CH 1, (SC-BLO x 1 B, 3SC-BLO B) x 4. SL ST to join. SL ST to join with O. (16)
  • Round 3: CH 1, (SC-BLO x 2 O, 3SC-BLO B, SC-BLO x 1 O) x 4. SL ST to join. SL ST to join with O. (24)
  • Round 4: CH 1, (SC-BLO x 3 O, 3SC-BLO B, SC-BLO x 2 O) x 4. SL ST to join with B.             (32)
  • Round 5: CH 1, (SC-BLO x 1 B, SC-BLO x 3 O, 3SC-BLO B, SC-BLO x 3 O) x 4. SL ST to join with B. (40)
  • Round 6: CH 1, (SC-BLO x 2 B, SC-BLO x 3 O, 3SC-BLO B, SC-BLO x 3 O, SC-BLO x 1 B) x 4. SL ST to join with O.             (48)
  • Round 7: CH 1, (SC-BLO x 1 O, SC-BLO x 2 B, SC-BLO x 3 O, 3SC-BLO B, SC-BLO x 3 O, SC-BLO x 2 B) x 4. SL ST to join with O.             (56)
  • Round 8: CH 1, (SC-BLO x 2 O, SC-BLO x 2 B, SC-BLO x 3 O, 3SC-BLO B, SC-BLO x 3 O, SC-BLO x 2 B, SC-BLO x 1 O) x 4. SL ST to join with O. (64)

Round 9: CH 1, (SC-BLO x 3 O, SC-BLO x 2 B, SC-BLO x 3 O, 3SC-BLO B, SC-BLO x 3 O, SC-BLO x 2 B, SC-BLO x 2 O). SL ST to join with B. (72)

Size of square base: 4”
Round 10: CH 1, SC-BLO x 72 B. Place a stitch marker in stitch number 9. SL ST to join. Cut off yarn.

The Sides: (the number of stitches is constant in each round) – Refer to the chart

Using black yarn B, join the yarn back where the stitch marker is.
Round 11 and 12:
CH 1, (SC-BLO x 3 B, SC-BLO x 15 O) x 4. SL ST to join with B.

Round 13: CH 1, (SC-BLO x 2 B, SC-BLO x 4 O, SC-BLO x 7 B, SC-BLO x 4 O,) x 4. SL ST to join with B

Round 14:  CH 1, (SC-BLO x 3 B, SC-BLO x 2 O, SC-BLO x 3 B, SC-BLO x 1 O, SC-BLO x 1 B, SC-BLO x 1 O, SC-BLO x 5 B, SC-BLO x 2 O) x 4. SL ST to join with B

Round 15: CH 1, (SC-BLO x 3 B, SC-BLO x 1 O, SC-BLO x 3 B, SC-BLO x 7 O, SC-BLO x 3 B, SC-BLO x 1 O) x 4. SL ST to join with B.
Round 16: CH 1, (SC-BLO x 3 B, SC-BLO x 15 O). SL ST to join with B.

Round 17: CH 1, (SC-BLO x 3 B, SC-BLO x 6 O, SC-BLO x 3 B, SC-BLO x 6 O). SL ST to join with B.
Round 18: CH 1, (SC-BLO x 3 B, SC-BLO x 7 O, SC-BLO x 1 B, SC-BLO x 7 O) x 4. SL ST to join with B.

Round 19: CH 1, (SC-BLO x 3 B, SC-BLO x 15 O) x 4. SL ST to join with B.

Round 20: CH 1, (SC-BLO x 3 B, SC-BLO x 1 O, SC-BLO x 5 B, SC-BLO x 3 O, SC-BLO x 5 B, SC-BLO x 1 O) x 4. SL ST to join with B.

Round 21: CH 1, (SC-BLO x 3 B, SC-BLO x 2 O, SC-BLO x 3 B, SC-BLO x 5 O, SC-BLO x 3 B, SC-BLO x 2 O) x 4. SL ST to join with B.
Round 22: CH 1, (SC-BLO x 3 B, SC-BLO x 3 O, SC-BLO x 1 B, SC-BLO x 7 O, SC-BLO x 1 B, SC-BLO x 3 O) x 4. SL ST to join with B.
Round 23 and 24: CH 1, (SC-BLO x 3 B, SC-BLO x 15 O) x 4. SL ST to join with B.
Round 25: Using B, SL ST x 72. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Disclaimer: You can sell finished items made of these patterns. Please give credit to Erini’s Corner with the original design. Any reproduction of the written patterns, video tutorials and photos either mechanically, electronically or through photocopying is NOT permitted.

3D Crochet Flower

Hey Everyone..
Hope you are enjoying your weekend. I just wanted to drop by here and let you know about the latest crochet tutorial up on my channel.

If you are into textured crochet flowers, this pattern is for you.
It is a quick project and does not require much yarn.

The 3D Crochet flower can be used as an embellishment on any blanket, hat, cardigan or bag.

I currently do not have a written pattern for this flower. If you need one, please let me know in the comments section here or on the video itself on YouTube and I will be happy to write it down for you.

Enjoy the rest of your weekend and keep crocheting!

The Ride Square

Hello .. Hello..
How are you friends? What have you been up to lately?

I have been busy creating new videos for my channel. I have uploaded some pattern tutorials but have not had a chance to update my blog. But I am here with a new square tutorial. Don’t you love squares, specially when they are not the typical granny squares?

The Ride Square is a unique 2-color square, made with 100% mercerized cotton. 

You can find the video tutorial right below. I, also, have the written instructions here and an ad-free version can be found on my Ravelry store

The Ride Square

Material Needed:

  • 100 % Cotton Yarn – Weight 3 (DK) – 2 different colors
  • Hook: 3.5 mm
  • Tapestry needle to weave in ends

Notes:

  • The pattern is written using US Terms.
  • Chain 1 or 2 in the beginning of the round is not considered a stitch.
  • Number stitch abbreviation e.g., 3DC: Three double crochet stitches into the same stitch.
  • Stitch abbreviation x number e.g., SCx3: Single crochet into each of the next 3 stitches.
  • At the end of each round, slip stitch to join the first and last stitches.
  • Change in color is done at the end of the round when joining the first and last stitches with a slip stitch.
  • The yarn not used for the round is NOT carried along unless otherwise stated in the pattern.

The number in brackets at the end of each round is the number of total stitches for that round.

Abbreviations: (alphabetically)


C1: Color 1
C2: Color 2

CH: Chain

DC: Double Crochet

HDC: Half Double Crochet

HDC-BLO: Half Double Crochet into the Back Loop Only

FPDC2TOG: Front Post Double Crochet 2 Together

FPSC: Front Post Single Crochet
FPTR: Front Post Treble (Triple) Crochet

MR: Magic Ring
RD: Round

SC: Single Crochet
SC-BLO: Single Crochet into the Back Loop Only

SK: Skip

SP: Space

Sl St: Slip Stitch
ST(s): Stitch(es)

Special Stitches:

  • FPTR: yarn over (yo) twice, insert the hook around the specified post from front to back to front, yo and pull a loop (lp), 4 lps on hook, (yo and pull through 2 lps) x 3
  • FPDC2TOG: yo, insert the hook around the specified post from front to back to front, yo and pull a loop (lp), 3 lps on hook, yo and pull through 2 lp. YO and insert the hook around the next specified post, yo and pull a loop (lp), 4 lps on hook, yo and pull through 2 lp (3 lps on hook), yo and pull through 3 lps.
  • FPSC: Insert the hook around the specified stitch from front to back to front, yo and pull a lp (2 lps on hook), yo and pull through 2 lps.
  • PUFF: (yo, insert the hook into the specified st, yo and pull a lp) x 3 times, 7 lps on hook, yo and pull through all lps, ch 1.

Pattern:

Into the MR:

  • RD 1 (C1): CH2, 12DC (12)
  • RD 2 (C2): Sl St to the next SP between 2DC posts. CH2, 2DC into SP x 12 (24)
  • RD 3 (C1): Sl St to the next SP between 2 sets of DC. (2HDC, FPTR around post of RD 1, Sk1) x 12 (36)
  • RD 4 (C2): CH1, (SCx2, FPDC2TOG around the posts of RD 2, SK1) x 12 (36)
  • RD 5 (C1 and carrying C2 along): CH2, [DC, 2DC, switch to C2, puff, switch to C1 (please check notes)] x 12 (48)
  • RD 6 (C2): (2SC, SCx2, FPSC around puff) x 12 (60)
  • RD 7 (C1): (HDC-BLO, SC-BLOx12, HDC-BLO, 3DC) x 4 (68)
  • RD 8 (C2): (HDC-BLO, SC-BLOx12, HDC-BLOx2, 3DC, HDC-BLO) x 4 (76)
    Fasten off and weave in the ends. Block your square if needed.