Japanese Knot Bag


Hello everyone. I saw the Japanese knot bags on Pinterest and wanted to give it a try in crochet. I decided to go with pumpkin colors since we are getting closer to Thanksgiving here in Canada and lots of fellow crocheters are looking for new Fall / Thanksgiving themed projects. You can definitely try it in any color you want.
I find this bag really helpful when you are on the go and wanting to have your mask and hand sanitizer handy during pandemic.

Unfortunately, I couldn’t find cotton yarn in orange and green before shooting the video so in the tutorial, you will find me working with acrylic yarn. If it’s your first time crocheting bags and wondering about the material to be used, acrylic yarn has a stretch in it and that’s why it’s always advisable to either use cotton yarn or if you will got with acrylic then you need to add a lining to your bag.

I have written the directions for 2 sizes; the small one (featured in the video tutorial) and the bigger size. The pattern starts off the same for both then changes take place in round 5; as highlighted below.

For the handles, you will find 2 different numbers with one (between brackets for large size bag). 
Gauge
: N/A

Yarn: Cotton yarn of weight 4 (Orange and green) or your yarn of choice
Hook: 4 mm or hook size to match your yarn choice
Stitches Used: (US Terms)
Double Crochet 2 Together (Dc2tog): Yarn over, insert the hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull a loop through the stitch, 3 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops only, yarn over, insert the hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull a loop through the stitch, 4 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, 3 loops on the hook remaining, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
Notes:
          The pattern is written for 2 different sizes, small and large.
          The chain 1 at the beginning of each row is NOT considered a stitch.
        At the end of each round / row, the total number of stitches will be mentioned between brackets
     (No) Stitch name (e.g. 2 dc): Means 2 double crochet stitches in the same stitch i.e. increase
     Stitch name x (No) – e.g. dc x 3: Means one double crochet stitch into each of the next 3 stitches
     I used the invisible decrease method as explained in the video (11:40).

Abbreviations:
Ch: chain
St(s): stitch(es)
DC: double crochet
DC2TOG: double crochet 2 together (explained above)
Rep: repeat
Rd: Round
RS: Right side
Sc: Single crochet
Sc2tog: single crochet 2 together (used the invisible decrease)
Sl St: Slip stitch
St: Stitch
WS: wrong side
Pattern:
Using color 1, create a magic ring.
Rd 1: Ch 1, dc x 12    (12)
Rd 2: Ch 1, 2dc into each st    (24)
Rd 3: Ch 1, *2 dc, dc2tog*. Repeat *__* till the end, sl st to join      (36)
Rd 4:
Ch 1, *dc2tog x 2, 2dc *. Repeat *__* till the end, sl st to join (48)

** For the small size bag**

Rd 5: Ch 1, dc2tog across the whole rd. Sl st to join.             (48)     
Repeat Rd 5 till you finish Rd 12.

Switch to color 2
Rd 13:
Ch 1, *sc x 2, sc2tog*. Repeat *__* till the end, sl st to join (36)
Rd 14:
Ch 1, sc across the rd. Sl st to join. (36)


***For the large size bag ***
Rd 5:
Ch 1, *dc2tog, 2dc, dc2tog x 2*. Repeat *__* till the end, sl st to join            (60)
Repeat Rd 6 till you finish Rd 15.

Switch to color 2
Rd (16): Ch 1, *sc x 3, sc2tog*. Repeat *__* till the end, sl st to join (48)
Rd (17):
Ch 1, sc across the rd. Sl st to join    (48)



Short Handle:
Row 1:
Ch 1, sc x 7 (8)
Row 2: Ch 1 , turn, sc x 7 (8)
Repeat row 2 till you reach a length of 8” (9”). Cut off the yarn, leaving a long tail to sew the handle to the other side of the bag. Turn the bag inside out, working on the WS, start attaching the handle to the other side. Please refer to the video (16:58) for where to join the handle.

Long Handle:

Turn the bag inside out again. Now we are back to the RS. Lay your bag flat and pick the stitch on the other opposite side of where you started the short handle.
Join you yarn and repeat the same steps done of the short handle, till you reach a length of 10” (15”).
Sew the other side to the bag.

And now the bag is ready. Insert the long handle into the short one and your bag is closed.

Terms:
If you intend to sell projects made from my free patterns you find on my YouTube Channel (Erini’s Crochet Corner), Instagram account or blog, I would appreciate it if you link it back to any of my accounts on social media. Thank you and happy crocheting 🙂


The Braided Messy Bun Beanie

Welcome to this week’s free pattern. As we are getting nearer to Fall, I felt that’s a good time to share my braided messy bun beanie pattern. The pattern is beginner friendly so if you haven’t worked with braids and color changes before, don’t worry. Everything is explained in details in the video if you need any demonstration.

The video tutorial covers the steps for a messy bun beanie. In the written pattern below, I have added 2 more rounds in case you want to convert it to a closed beanie.


Yarn: Worsted yarn or your yarn of choice

Hook: 5.5 mm hook size for an adult size beanie.
Notes:
          The chain 1 at the beginning of each row is NOT considered a stitch.
          At the end of each round / row, the total number of stitches will be mentioned between brackets
          (No) Stitch name (e.g. 2 hdc): Means 2 half double crochet stitches in the same stitch i.e. increase
          Stitch name x (No) – e.g. hdc x 3: Means one half double crochet stitch into each of the next 3 stitches
          I used the invisible decrease method as shown in the video 31:15.
         For a smaller or bigger size beanie, use the same stitch count below with a smaller or bigger hook size.

Abbreviations:
AC: Accent color
Ch: Chain
Hdc: Half Double Crochet
MC: Main Color
Pr: Previous
Rep: Repeat
Rs: Right Side
Sc: Single Crochet
Sc – blo: Single crochet into the back loop only
Sc – flo: Single crochet into the front loop only
Sc2tog: single crochet 2 together (decrease)
St(s): Stitch(es)


Pattern:
Brim:
Using MC
Ch 10
Row 1: Sk 1st st from the hook, sc x 9             (9)
Row 2 – 46: Ch 1, turn, sc-blo x 9                    (9)
At the end of row 46, bring the 2 short edges together, ch 1, * insert the hook into the flo of the pr row and the rem loop of the foundation chain and sl st to join both sides *. Rep*__* 8 more times.      (9 sl st)
Turn the work inside out. Now we will work around the long edge of the brim. This is now the RS.

Beanie Body:

Using MC
Round 1: Ch 1, sc into the 1st st, sc x 8, 2 sc, *sc x 9, 2 sc *. Rep *__* 2 more times. Sc x 6. Sl st to join. (50)
Round 2: Ch 1, hdc into the 1st st, hdc x 4, ch 7, sl st into the 1stch, *hdc x 5, ch 7, sl st into the 1st ch*. Rep *__* 8 more times . Sl st using AC                 (10 ch 7 loops, 50 hdc)

Round 3: Ch 1, sc x 50 . Sl st using MC                        (50)

Repeat rounds 2 and 3 four more times.

Round 12: Ch 1, hdc x 50. Sl st using AC                                (50)

Before starting round 13 braid your loops as shown in video 25:03.


Round 13: Ch 1, * sc x 4, insert the hook into the loop of round 10 then sc*. Rep *__* 9 more times, sl st using MC. You can now cut off AC.

Round 14: Ch 1, *sc x 3, sc2tog*. Rep *__* 9 more times, sl st to join         (40)

Round 15: Ch 1 , *sc x 2, sc2tog*. Rep *__* 9 more times, sl st to join        (30)

Round 16: Ch 1, *sc, sc2tog*. Rep *__*9 more times, sl st to join               (20)

At this point, you can fasten off for a messy bun beanie.

For a closed top beanie;
Round 17:
Ch 1, sc2tog x 10, sl st to join        (10)
Round 18:
Ch 1, sc2tog x 10, sl st to join. Fasten off and sew the opening closed.  (5)

Terms:
If you intend to sell projects made from my free patterns you find on my YouTube Channel (Erini’s Crochet Corner), Instagram account or blog, I would appreciate it if you link it back to any of my accounts on social media. Thank you and happy crocheting 🙂

Side to Side Shawl

I jumped over the pocket shawl wagon and made my own pattern. I didn’t like the idea of chaining over a hundred stitches to start so I had to figure out a pattern that is worked width-wise. I used different stitches (each explained slowly in the video) so if you are a beginner you will find it easy to follow. 
And before I leave you with the pattern, I want to thank each and everyone who took the time to write me on Facebook, Instagram and YouTube. Your comments are the reason why I keep doing what I’m doing. Take care, stay safe and crochet on 😊.

Gauge: N/A

Yarn: Worsted yarn or your yarn of choice. I used 2 skeins of  Bernat Premium for the body and less than half a skein for the pockets.

Hook: 7 and 8 mm or hook size to match your yarn choice

 

Stitches Used: (US Terms)

Special Stitch (SpS): Skip the next ch 1 space and the following stitch and work 2 double crochet stitches into the next ch 1 space. Next, insert the hook into the skipped ch 1 space and work one double crochet, making sure that when you pull the loop it is going around the 2 double crochet you just made. For illustration, refer to the video at 4:41

Abbreviations:

Bpdc: Back Post Double Crochet

Bptr: Back Post Treble

Ch: Chain

Dc: Double Crochet

Fpdc: Front Post Double Crochet

Fptr: Front Post Treble Crochet

Hdc: Half Double Crochet

Pr: Previous

Rep: Repeat

Rs: Right Side

Sc: Single Crochet

Sc – blo: Single crochet into the back loop only

Sc – flo: Single crochet into the front loop only

SpS: Special Stitch (refer to stitches used section)

St(s): Stitch(es)

Ws: Wrong Side

Shawl Body:

Size: 45 x 125 cm

Notes:

          The shawl is worked from one short side of the rectangle to the other. The foundation chain determines the width of it. The rows determine the length of the rectangle.

          This pattern can be customized to the width of your choice by chaining a multiple of 4 + 1.

          The chain 1 at the beginning of each row is NOT considered a stitch.

          Front Post Double Crochet (Fpdc): It is worked around the post in the previous row.

Pattern:

Using 8 mm hook, chain 53 (≈ 45 cm)
Row 1: Ch 1, into the 2nd ch from hook work hdc, hdc into each st across.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, hdc into the 1stst, ch 1, sk 1 st, hdc, *ch 1, sk 1 st, hdc *. Repeat *__*. You should be ending the row with hdc st.
Row 3 (RS): Ch 1 turn, hdc into the 1stst. *Work SpS into the following two ch 1 spaces, fpdc around the next st *. Repeat *__* until you have two ch 1 spaces remaining. Work SpS around the last 2 ch1 sp then 1 hdc into the last st.
Row 4 (WS): Ch 1 turn, sc, ch 1, sk 1 st, *sc, ch 1, sk 1 st, bpdc, ch 1, sk 1 st *. Repeat *__* till you have one st remaining, sc into the last st.
 
Repeat rows 3 & 4 till you reach the required length.
 
Row before the last: Working into the ch 1 spaces of previous only, 2 hdc into each sp till one st is remaining, hdc into the last st. Count your stitches and make sure you have the same number of stitches you started your shawl with.

Last row: Ch 1 , turn, hdc into each stitch across. Fasten off.

 

Pocket (Make 2): 

Size: 24.5 x 19.5 cm each

Notes:

          All odd number rows are worked as row 1

          Front Post Treble (FpTr): This stitch is worked around the front post stitch 2 rows below.

Pattern:

Using 8 mm hook, chain 23 (To make a bigger or smaller pocket, chain a multiple of 4 +3)
Row 1 and all odd rows: Ch 1, hdc into the 2nd ch from hook and into each st across.
Row 2 (RS): Ch 1, hdc into the 1st st, fpdc around the hdc of pr row, *hdc into the next 3 sts, fpdc*. Repeat *__* till you have one st remaining, hdc into the last st.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, hdc into the 1st st, fptr, *hdc into the next 3 sts, fptr*. Repeat *___* till you have one st remaining, hdc into the last st.
Repeat rows 1 and 4 till you reach the height you want. Then switch to 7 mm hook.
Row before last: Ch 1, turn, sc-flo into each st across.
Last row: Ch 1 , turn, sc – blo into each st across. Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew the pocket to the shawl.

To position you shawl pocket for sewing, please refer to the video at 30:55

 

Terms:
If you intend to sell projects made from my free patterns you find on my YouTube Channel (Erini’s Crochet Corner), Instagram account or blog, I would appreciate it if you link it back to any of my accounts on social media. Thank you and happy crocheting 🙂